Beginner's Guide to Panel Lining: From Zero to Pro in One Session

Panel lining is the single best technique to instantly level up any Gunpla build. Even a basic HG kit looks dramatically better with clean panel lines. In this tutorial, we'll cover everything from tool selection to cleanup.

Tools You'll Need

You have two main options: Gundam Markers (convenient, beginner-friendly) or enamel paint washes (more realistic, requires solvent for cleanup). We recommend starting with the Gundam Marker Panel Line set in gray or black.

The Technique

Flow the marker tip lightly into the recessed lines — capillary action does most of the work. Don't press hard. Let it dry for 2-3 minutes, then use an eraser or cotton swab with a tiny amount of enamel thinner to clean up any overflow.

The Three Panel Lining Methods

There are three legitimate ways to panel line a kit. Each produces a different look. Knowing which to use is half the skill.

Method 1: Gundam Markers. The most beginner-friendly option. The fine-tip markers (gray, black, brown) flow ink directly into recessed lines via capillary action. Cleanup uses an eraser (for fresh ink) or a cotton swab with a tiny amount of marker thinner. Good for HG and EG kits and any time you want a 'clean' final look without paint involvement.

Method 2: Enamel Wash. Thinned enamel paint (Tamiya Panel Line Accent works without thinning) flows into recessed lines via capillary action, then excess is wiped off with a tissue or cotton swab moistened with enamel thinner. The result is more realistic — slightly weathered, slightly subtle. The risk: enamel thinner can craze bare plastic, so always topcoat first.

Method 3: Pencil. A 0.3mm or 0.5mm mechanical pencil with a soft (B or 2B) lead. Trace the recessed lines lightly. The result is the subtlest of the three — almost invisible up close, but adds depth when the kit is photographed under lighting. Ideal for high-grade builds where you want hint of definition without overdoing it.

Color Pairing Rules

Match the liner to the panel color. White surfaces take gray or brown — never black. Black is too aggressive on white and reads as graffiti. Light gray surfaces take dark gray. Yellow surfaces take brown. Red surfaces take dark brown or maroon. Black surfaces (rare) take dark gray.

Save the pure-black liner for mechanical inner frames and dark engine details. On exterior armor, pure black makes the kit look cartoonish.

The Order of Operations

If you're doing both decals and panel lining, the order matters. Always: build → top coat (matte/satin) → panel line → decals → top coat (final). Putting decals before panel lining means the liner can wick under the decal edges and ruin them. Putting top coat after decals seals everything together with a uniform sheen.

Skipping the first top coat is the single most common mistake. Bare plastic is glossy, and panel liner pools on glossy surfaces rather than flowing into recesses. A matte top coat creates microtexture that lets the liner work properly.

Cleanup Without Damage

For Gundam Markers: an eraser works only on fresh ink (within minutes of application). After it dries, switch to a cotton swab barely moistened with marker thinner. The cleanup tool of choice for working pros is a Mr. Hobby 'Mr. Clean Color' brush with a tiny amount of cleanup solvent.

For enamel washes: a cotton swab dampened (not wet) with enamel thinner. Roll the swab over the surface in the direction of the panel line. Enamel thinner evaporates fast, so re-dampen frequently. If you press too hard or use too much thinner, you'll lift the liner out of the recess too — patience is the key.

Common Mistakes & Fixes

Mistake: Liner spreads instead of flowing into recesses. Cause: surface is too glossy. Fix: top coat the kit and try again.

Mistake: Liner won't come out of recesses during cleanup. Cause: too much wash solvent applied; the liner has thinned and absorbed into the panel line. Solution: it's actually fine — you've just achieved a darker line than intended. Live with it or repaint that section.

Mistake: Cotton swab leaves white fibers stuck to the kit. Cause: poor-quality cotton swabs. Fix: switch to dental-grade cotton swabs or dedicated hobby swabs (Tamiya, GSI Creos).

Mistake: Black liner showing through colored topcoat. Cause: liner went on too thick. Fix: gently abrade the offending panel line with a 1500-grit sponge, then re-apply a thinner liner.

When NOT to Panel Line

Some kits look better without panel lining. Pure-white kits with minimal recessed detail (some Ver.Ka MGs) can look over-busy when lined. Glossy kit display pieces are also generally cleaner left un-lined. The rule of thumb: line the kit, photograph it, line another section, photograph it, and stop when you've gone too far. Better under-done than over-done.